Tips on how to sew in conscealed zippers

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These special zips exist in 3 lengths: 22cm, 40cm and 60cm. The zip should be 2cm longer than the slit and is sewn in before sewing together the seam at the bottom of the slit. To sew in the zip use a special sewing foot or a traditional zip foot where the needle can be adjusted from left to right.

Insertion of zip: Baste the entire length of the seam with big stitches and press open. Remove basting for the length of the zip. Open the zip, turn the clothing to the reverse side and place the right side of the zip to the seam edge.

Press the zip teeth out so that it is possible to sew close to the teeth. Pin the zip in position on line of seam allowance. Baste both sides in position.


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Lower the sewing foot onto the zip so that the spiral edge fits exactly into the notch on the right side of the needle. Set the needle to the right and then sew along the zip edge very exactly. Whilst doing this press the edge to the right and outwards. Machine down and close zip. Repeat the procedure with the other zip side in the opposed way.

The seam below the zip is then sewn and finished off with a zip foot, the needle positioned to the right. Turn the loose zip end to the seam allowance and sew tightly to the zip.